With the Scandinavian days behind me I could start planning for Berlin and also places that had connections with German composers from the Baroque and Classical/Romantic periods. I love history and sometimes I've had the nerdy notion of being one of those academic presenters we see on BBC and foreign documentaries. How societies developed, reigned or completely disappeared. There are many lessons learnt and hopefully not repeating itself for some nations. Germany and in particular Berlin has been the cradle of significant decisions affecting not only neighbouring nations but the whole world.
Life on a fast train to Berlin
I recently learnt that one of my great uncles was one of the famous Rats of Trobruk whose Australian WWII campaign in North Africa played a major part with the first battles to turn back Hitler's war machine fighting against the German Panza tank divisions lead by one of Hitler's favoured military leaders Rommel. My great Uncle Emm (Emerson) from Australia survived schrapnel wounds. So to some degree the family connection is there.
In 1989 Berlin again made left its indelible mark in history with the falling of the wall that divided East from West Berlin and essentially reunited the nation. I remember for some odd reason I was listening to a song by progressive rock group Tears for Fears called The Working Hour while catching a news bulletin on the ABC with scenes of the Berlin wall falling with President Yeltsin in view. Now thirty years on it looks like the cold war has returned with two opposing nations run by unchallenged leaders backed by oligarchs. You can forget about liberating climate change when these regimes dictate their own agendas and our futures. The heroic people of Hong Kong (I've been there four times within the last ten months) are testing this mandate. Sorry Greta but your frustrations are falling on deaf ears while they will bury you happily and dispute your climate change fears.
I like to stay where the real folk are and by pure chance my hotel was only 10 mins walk away from the Wall and within the wonderful cosmopolitan centre - I felt like I was back in Brunswick, Melbourne with the sound of trams and baristas honing their skills. Most of this short section of the Wall is covered with artworks expressing views and meaning as art does.
Friedrichshain district Berlin
Many of us in the right generations should have some awareness of Hitler's extraordinary demise and last days in the famous bunker as Russian troops made their way from the East. It’s hard to fathom how one disturbed individual could gain such power as a member of an 'intelligent' nation and cause unimaginable sorrow and destruction across Europe and other continents. I'm going to jump to another subject I covered in a recent Australian blog - it's about people having extraordinary lives and ending their them in insignificant spaces so bear with me. If you look at the Australian ten dollar banknote you will see a portrait of Dame Mary Gilmore who achieved great things as a writer and campaigner against injustice - she is also the great great aunt of Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison. By chance I discovered her 'paupers' grave next to her estranged husband and son in a windy, dusty and treeless cemetery in Cloncurry in far west Queensland. I was actually looking at Afghan graves and how they were oriented towards Mecca.
Central Berlin
Brandebburg Gate
Berlin reborn
So this leads me back to my point - a significant individual like Hitler spends twelve years breathing oxygen, almost destroying the Jewish nation, dictates many military campaigns against other nations and yet when it all ends to mark his final resting place is a non-descript carpark amongst apartment blocks only minutes away from the historical Brandenburg gate. That’s probably how it should be as many German citizens want to forget this immovable stain on their history.
Site of Hitlers Bunker that no longer exists
Jewish memorial nearby
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